Working on the edge: repairing decks is easy and a good way to make extra money. This step-by-step pictorial shows how to tackle one of the most common problems: a broken cantilever edge - service
August 24th, 2007 by moniesService technicians who simply come into a customer’s backyard, net a few leaves, balance the water, add a little sanitizer and then leave are missing out on a golden opportunity to grow their bottom lines. A look at many backyard pools often reveals cracked or degraded decking, coping and cantilever edges. Repairing these problems is easier than you think. It’s also an excellent way to increase revenue-charges range from $150 to $250 per repair–and impress your customers at the same time.
Here’s a step-by-step look at how to repair a broken cantilever edge:
Repairing broken cantilever edges
A cantilever edge is the part of the pool deck that overhangs the pool above the waterline tile, protruding approximately 1-1/2 inches. Ground movement usually causes cantilever edge problems such as this one.
There are different ways to repair a cantilever edge. One way is to use a flexible, neutral cure silicone rubber to reattach the pieces that are loose or have fallen off. Neutral cure silicone rubber (unlike acetoxy silicone rubber) will adhere to cement surfaces and stay bonded for more than a couple of years. Another way is to fill the void with bonding repair cement. This article will show you how to perform both these repair methods.
Neutral Cure Silicon Rubber Method
(1) Remove the pieces of the cantilever edge that are loose or have pulled away. Place them in order of removal on the pool deck to make it easier to remember where to put them back.
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(2) If re-attaching pieces using neutral cure silicone rubber, first clean the bonding surfaces with a fast-drying liquid that leaves no residue, such as acetone or rubbing alcohol.
If no such solution is available, you can use water and a sponge to clean them. If the surfaces need further cleaning, wet the surfaces with water, apply muriatic acid and then, after about 15 to 30 seconds, rinse them off with a strong burst from a water hose.
(3) Use a hot-air gun to dry the bonding surfaces. This is very important when using neutral cure silicone rubber for adhesion because it will only bond correctly to dry surfaces.
(4) Re-attaching pieces of a cantilever edge is somewhat like a big jigsaw puzzle. Sometimes they fit perfectly back into place; other times, they need to be trimmed to fit, using a tool such as a 4-inch diamond blade on a 4-inch grinder. (Remember to clean any surfaces that you grind.)
(5) Apply a 1/4-inch bead of neutral cure silicone rubber to the back of the piece to be installed. Install pieces back into their previous positions by pressing them forcefully for a tight bond so they don’t fall off. If in doubt, use some duct tape to hold the pieces until they are firm enough to stay by themselves.
(6) After installing the pieces, some silicone rubber may come out of the sides or the cracks. This excess material is easily removed by employing a scrubber pad that is used for silicone rubber tile grouting (or even a Scotch Brite-type pad), along with liquid acetone or rubbing alcohol. Just apply the liquid to the scrubber pad and scrub the excess out of the crack. The excess silicone rubber will be removed from the surface of the repair and trapped inside the scrubber pad.
Repair Cement Method
(1) With the second repair method, if there are missing areas or gaps, or if no pieces of the cantilever edge are available, they can be filled in and troweled flat using cement and an acrylic-bonding agent. Unlike many bonding agents, acrylic bonder is not re-emulsifying. This means that once it has dried, no matter how much contact it has with water, it will not return to a liquid state again and lose its bonding properties. (Repair kits are available for this type of job at most any pool store or distributor.)
Mix the cement to a stiff consistency. Hold a large trowel under the repair area and rub a “scratch coat” into the surface, applying about 1/4-inch of material. Then, still holding the large trowel under the repair area, fill in the rest and trowel flat. Cracked areas can be filled using the same material. Then, using a damp sponge, clean off any excess cement, leaving the crack filled and flush.
(2) For quicker setup, use a hot-air gun to expedite the cement repair.
Cooldeck finish
Author: Bob Brooks
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